This week, Gucci released its pre-fall 2026 collection — the second effort from its new designer, Demna, whose "debut" show for the brand in September was actually a short movie starring characters he had costumed according to what he called "Gucci archetypes."
The pre-fall collection, Demna's next step in establishing a new identity for Gucci, landed a couple months before he is planning to have his first "official" runway show in Milan in February. Ahead, two fashion critics on the Styles desk debate what the latest line reveals about the new Gucci.
VANESSA FRIEDMAN This is a fascinating way to orchestrate a designer debut. If the movie premiere was Demna's brand overture, this collection is more like a prelude, leading directly to the main event. And it does suggest more of a specific direction for Demna's Gucci than the film did: Namely, the brand's 1990s Tom Ford heyday, when it had a sharp, minimal sexiness.
JACOB GALLAGHER I love that you say direction, because that, to me, is what this is all about — Demna is directing us somewhere.
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