Over a century since the motif was first unveiled, the Panth⁘re de Cartier has firmly established itself as an icon in jewellery history. The fierce, untamable feline possesses many facets to its personality, and continues to be reimagined in countless creations.
The history of the Cartier Panthe⁘re began when Jeanne Toussaint , a Parisian style icon, became acquainted with French jeweller Louis Cartier. Jeanne⁘s apartment in Paris, adorned with leopard skin motifs, was all the talk in the French capital⁘s social circles. Legend has it that she was inspired after seeing a panther on safari in Africa, with her obsession even earning her the nickname ⁘La Panthe⁘re⁘. And voila , the inspiration for Cartier⁘s famous jewellery line was born!
What started as a nickname indeed became the basis of one of Cartier⁘s most iconic jewellery creations ⁘ the Cartier Panthe⁘re wristwatch. It was the year 1914 at 13 Rue de la Paix in Paris, the stylistic cradle of Cartier, where the panther manifested itself in this watch, adorned with onyx and diamonds. The gemstones symbolised the feminine temperament and avant-garde allure of the panther, while the diamond⁘s scintillation was also a nod to the wild cat⁘s gleaming coat.
In the same year, the feline was featured on an invitation to a jewellery exhibition commissioned by Cartier from the artist George Barbier, with the graceful cat featured at the feet of an elegantly dressed lady. Later, under Jeanne Toussaint, appointed Creative Director of Cartier in 1933, the panther took on a sculptural, three-dimensional form. Under her vision, the panther became known for its stunningly sculpted yellow gold and black enamel ⁘ a colour combination that gave the animal more dimension.
Another significant brooch from the 1940s saw the powerful panther poised atop an impressive, cabochon-cut emerald weighing over 116 carats, set to become one of the most iconic jewellery pieces of the 20th century.
A big milestone occurred in 1983 when Cartier launched the Panthe⁘re de Cartier line of quartz watches ⁘ featuring a yellow gold link bracelet that perfectly matched the glam aesthetic of the ⁘80s ⁘ that quickly saw an upsurge in popularity.
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