Marc Jacobs unofficially opened New York Fashion Week on Monday night with a runway show for his spring 2026 collection, which riffed on a slew of famed fashion moments from the past. Björk blared on the speakers inside the Park Avenue Armory, as models wore looks that recalled the midi skirts and unconventional geek-chic, jolie laide suiting of Prada spring 1996; the retrofuturistic shapes of Yves Saint Laurent 1965 couture; and the very New York, minimalist, black and white tailoring from Helmut Lang's fall 1995 collection.
Most importantly, Jacobs cited his own groundbreaking grunge collection for Perry Ellis, doubling down on the low-rise plaid skirts and greige knitted sweaters that reportedly got him fired from the gig back in '92 (and ultimately brought him fame). Spring 2026 included shrunken button-downs with skinny belts, chunky leather shoulder bags, streamlined coatdresses, and low-neck blazers with nothing worn underneath. Nineties X-Girl and Stüssy were also credited as Jacobs's inspiration for spring, along with his own shows from fall 1995, summer 1998, and spring 2013, among others.
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