The Two Rachel Scott Women, Explored At Proenza Schouler And Diotima

This New York Fashion Week was bound to be a big moment for Rachel Scott—well, two big moments, as the designer shared a collection at her Diotima and her first-ever for Proenza Schouler. We've had a glimpse into her beauty perspective at past seasons of Diotima, which included undone Jamaican glam, but with a second show on her schedule, how would it change?

These put together imperfections carried on into the details of the show's beauty look. "[We took] elements of a classic makeup look and deconstructed them," makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver told me backstage. "It's makeup as an accessory." De Kluyver dreamt up three off-kilter looks utilizing Byredo's assortment of colorful cosmetics. The traditional eyeliner was eschewed—a chunky black kajal swiped across the lid on one eye, then on the lower lash line on the other. Some model's look was lip-centric. The average red power lip (shade Red Coma) was reworked in a similar style: one half-swipe of liquid matte lipstick in shade Red Coma on the top lip, and a half-swipe on the bottom lip to a jigsaw effect. "These slightly distort the face in a way," de Kluyver continues. The last look centered around dramatic lashes; a simple coat of mascara was swapped for a foil-crusted eyelash coated with Byredo's Astronomical Mascara in shade Space Black. Otherwise, skin was kept fresh and glowing—thanks in large part to Furtuna Skin's lineup.

Hair, too, embraced imperfection to embody "the woman who put herself together, and then kind of had to rush out the door," said pro makeup artist Holli Smith , who imagined a low ponytail that appears simple and effortless, but required time and precision. Curls, waves, and natural texture were enhanced by Oribe products, then set into place with T3 hot tools. The finish was sleek and out of the way, but undone.

A few days later, on an equally dreary day, came the Diotima show in the Financial District. "At Diotima, beauty is inseparable from the political," Scott said in the show notes. She drew inspiration from the work of Wilfredo Lam, an artist known for his portrayal of Afro-Cuban culture and spirituality. Lam's work embodies resistance, and Scott called out Lam's femme cheval motif in particular. The designer considered how this figure, both human and divine, transforms the object of desire into a cultural power.