Sunday, May 25, 2025

The Catwalk Was A Stage For The Designer's Astonishing And Troubling Vision...

The sponsor, American Express, baulked at the idea. The show was instead simply called "Untitled" – although that golden shower still manifested itself in a spectacular downpour that drenched models, catwalk and audience alike. It wasn't sexual, nor especially urolagnial; it was poetic, visually stunning. Moving. It is, possibly, better supported by the end of that McQueen quote: "I prefer extreme reactions."

McQueen's early work was obsessed with the corporeal and the visceral: it found a natural counterpart in the Young British Artists movement. When McQueen designed a corset of transparent plastic trapping tapeworms against bare flesh in 1995, for instance, it ended up looking like a Damien Hirst work.

Later this month, a show about those shows opens at London's Victoria & Albert Museum: titled "Savage Beauty", and originally staged at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art, it is a thematic exploration of McQueen's aesthetic obsessions throughout his career.

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